The parallel worlds of Persia



Dear Diary

In the night we change our host. Amir Abbas is a great guy, but during the time we waited in the bus station and looked for alternatives we got an interesting offer from a guy called Saeid. “Come to me, and together we will break some rules”. That sounded too good to miss.

Amir Abbas is a little sad that we leave, but he brings us to the address of the other guys. The apartment is full with guests and Saeid excuses that there is a birthday party for one of their girlfriends and hopefully we would not be too tired.

We are not, change quickly and the party is on. I am lucky still to have another can cake with me and everyone cheers joyfully when I serve it to the birthday child. The music is a mix of Persian club sounds and the volume is accordingly loud.




The party does not lack a thing. There is alcoholic drinks, loud music, dancing and girls in short dresses. Ahmed introduces us to his friends Saeid, Ahmad, Amir, Moein and the girls Leila, Roxana and Nahid. The guys tell us that they rent the apartment in secret.

Their families do not know of this place and they have to create lies about being at their friends’ or having night shift at work to cover the place where they are free to hang out, dance and invite girls – having a normal Western life..


It is a night to remember, where I find myself drinking, dancing, kissing a beautiful girl and enjoying the atmosphere. It is dangerous magic; the emotion is pure, everything we are doing is forbidden and would be punished with prison and torture. This is why it is even more tempting, thrilling and more intensive. All of the sudden Saeid suggests, “Let’s go for breakfast! Alex, you have to have kalepachee”. I have no idea, what they are talking about and I try to wake up Uwe, but he is snoring deeply on the sofa. I am pretty drunk and follow my friends without hesitation or passport and cannot recall every detail of the next events.

We go to the cars and drive only five minutes around the corner. We end up in a place, which looks like a butcher’s kitchen. The pale skulls of sheep look at me with their empty eyes. On our table appear multiple plates filled with meat of different shape. “This is the tongue, this is the brain and these are the eyes of a sheep. Enjoy, Alex”.

I cannot decide which of the delicacies I should try first. In this situation, it is good to be drunk. I do not need to decide, because Leila, puts already a wrap of bread and tongue into my hand, followed by a wrap of brain. There are two eyes, one is for me, but I will not eat it alone. Nahid, my crush, is taking one eye and gives me the other one. I never thought, that haveing “eye ontact” with a pretty girl could look like this.


I am surprised that it is not as terrible as I thought it would be. Maybe it is the alcohol. It tastes simply of animal fat.

All of us need a break and some sleep. Uwe has some problems with his teeth, so in the afternoon, we go to a dentist and he gets quickly professional and cheap help.

Then we visit the bazar of Kerman, witness a childrens’ play on a square of Baba Nowruz (the Persian Santa Claus) and decide to make a party in the evening again. It pretty much goes the same way again like the night before.


Live music at the bazar of Kerman


The next day our friends take us to a mansion, which is similar to the one where we have been before. It is called Shahzdeh Garden and looks like an oasis in the dry and deserted country. Fountains of water between the trees, flowers and bushes in front of the noble house let us forget that we are in the middle of the desert and close the hottest place on earth

(according to recent reports Where are the hottest spots on Earth? from David J. Mildrexler, Maosheng Zhao and Steven W. Running), the Dasht-e Lut, or from the people only called “Ka-Lut”. Over 70° C have been measured here already.



This is exactly, where we plan to go for the night and for the next party. Ahmed called all his friends to meet in the evening in the desert and have an open-air party there. The departure is a little chaotic and it takes time until it is settled who is driving with whom and we arrive late after sunset at a spot, which is fit to be close enough to the road to be reached and far enough not to be seen. It would not be possible, if it was not for Amir’s car, which is a 4×4 BMW. He keeps secret, how he avoided the sanctions and got his car.

I have my boom box with me and as long as the battery holds we dance, smoke and enjoy the night. After Uwe enjoyed it so much, I introduce my friends with light painting. There is little sleep again and in the morning, despite our hangovers, we prepare early to leave to avoid the merciless heat.






We nap for a little while until our friends again have places to show us. Ahmed brings us to a fire temple, a holy place in the religion of Zarathustrianism (zardtosht), an ancient monotheistic religion of Persia. This place is very interesting for us since we have never seen anything like this before. Before we enter the place, we have to wear a hat, which is given to us. We can also only see the fire, which is the heart of the temple, through a window. The fire is always burning and someone is in charge to keep it hot.

Our farewell is near and we decide to meet everyone in a coffee shop. Even though it is called like that they do not serve coffee, but tea, shisha and delicious food. A group is playing live music and our friends order a song special for us. For good friends.


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