The next day we explore the small port town of Puerto Baquerizo Moreno and the beaches nearby. The time of day doesn’t seem to matter, fat sea lions are scattered all over the city and doze. It’s just a short walk to Playa Mann. We lie down on the beach and watch the sea lions on the water.

There, mighty bulls peer out of the water and glare venomously at other bulls. The females lie stacked on top of each other on the beach or between chairs at a beach bar. And the puppies pad between the rocks.

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It doesn’t seem like a good time. When wild animals have young, they will behave aggressively towards anyone who comes near these young. I thought. Are you kidding me? Are you serious when you say that. I see a few suicidal locals unsuspectingly approaching the puppies. And not happened. Someone goes swimming and just a meter away passes a fat bull that looks out of the water with its big head. Nothing happens. But then the colossus moves. And lunges at another bull that got too close to his stretch of beach.

Humans are not interested in the seals at all. If anything, it’s out of curiosity. Young seals rush through the sand towards us. Then our things are sniffed. Then the young sea lions rush over our ceiling and fight in the water. Even a small puppy gropes adventurously through our small camp. We are stunned.

Of course I jump into the cold water and swim through the bay with fins and snorkel.

Again and again a sea lion shoots past me out of nowhere and invites me to a short dance before disappearing again in the haze of the water.

But if we thought there were a lot of sea lions here, it’s only because we haven’t gone any further. The next beach, Punta Playa Carola, is as busy as the Copacabana in Rio de Janeiro. For sea lions only.