Diary Entry

We had beautiful days at the Rio Verde. Part of the reason we stayed there and made the detour north was the road from here to Aquidauana. I read about this street that there are said to be a particularly large number of anteaters to be seen here. We would like to see these animals and accept the route to do so. We’ve got enough water and food and we’re ready.

After a few hundred meters the road consists only of gravel and bumps. At first the route only disappoints with industry, artificially created forests and then cattle grazing. But then the landscape changes. The road leads through jungle and again past endless pastures. Table Mountain stretches across the horizon, turning red as the day progresses as the sun sets.

We see many animals along the way, especially birds. Black vultures keep circling near the road, we also see giant white-headed vultures. Huge rheas stalk through the grass and small blue birds flit through the bushes. The only thing we haven’t seen yet is anteaters.
It is very hot. We put up the awning to get shade. Again the water doesn’t work, but this time because a hose broke. I fix the hose, but the water pressure doesn’t return to its original state. I’ll have to look at that again later.

Wooden constructions that look very dilapidated lead again and again over small rivers. We can also drive around the bridges. Every bridge has an alternative. But I suspect that this option only exists during the dry season of winter.

We don’t bother looking for a place to stay for the night and stop next to a pasture fence not far from the slope. Nevertheless, the location is fantastic. The mountains are golden in color and it looks like the African steppe. I did not present this picture under Brazil. We let the drone circle above us and also fly a little into the distance.

The road goes straight to the horizon. Night falls and with it the stars. The moon is slowly getting fuller and is pushing out the Milky Way with its light.

We have a relaxed breakfast and leave at 8:30 am. And the Pantanal unpacks an assortment of the finest animal species for us. We see seriemas, coatis, wild boar, black vultures, king vultures, capybaras, spotted guanas, white-necked bisis and toucans.

Then we see more rheas, jabirus and the ubiquitous caracaras that look like gangsters than birds. But still not a single anteater, although it is said to be teeming with them. There are so many term buildings here.

It’s very dry. The forest looks like rainforest, but the green is very dull and more like the dust of the road.

In the rainy season there is certainly more colour, but less sun and the area is difficult to drive on.

We’ve been talking about the “breakdown of the day” for a long time. Every day we have some problem with the car. It’s almost funny if it weren’t so annoying and hangs over us like a curse. Loudly we discuss what could happen to us today. We already had the freezer, the water pump, the electrics and the doors. Fate is happy to answer our question quickly. In the rear-view mirror I can see that the awning has loosened a bit from its socket. I stop and try to push her back down. A small part detaches and springs towards me, as does the rest of the awning a moment later.

The whole awning hangs down on the car and can no longer be attached. Two contact screws are broken and cannot be replaced. I try duct tape first and then luggage straps that I tie through the windows. At least that’s how we make it to Aquidauana, where we’ll spend the next few days on a ranch. Without sighting a single anteater! Still, we’re glad we drove this road as we were able to see so much wilderness.



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