In Konjic we cannot find our accommodation at first. Instead, we find someone in a bar near the address given who usually works in a nearby munitions factory and has nothing better to do with us than to go looking for us and call the owner for us.

He receives us in a fine suit, as he has just left a wedding celebration for us.

We immediately moved into our apartment, which turns out to be a real palace. On the balcony we look over the roofs of Konjic, puff cigars and enjoy the local wine. There are worse days.

There are worse evenings.

During the day we see the beautiful side of Konjic, even if it can be reduced to a bridge and a few old town houses. We wait in a cafe with a pleasant music playlist and a rampaging kitten named Maus. We would like to take part in a guided tour through the nearby bunker of Tito. The billion-dollar project was built over the decades of the Cold War and was finished on time when Tito died and the Soviet Union collapsed. Today all willing tourists can see what Tito could not see, but how he and three hundred of his followers could have spent the years of a nuclear winter.

The individual rooms of the roommates who never moved in welcome us in the charm of the 70s. The guide explains to us the madness of the time, the money used and the current problems of the country. Huge water reservoirs, monstrous diesel generators and huge ventilation systems should supply the system with the most necessary. First-generation Siemens PCs are in an office. They were never turned on.

Today, many artists have immortalized themselves in a permanent exhibition in the bunker. They also show the madness of the war in their country. The exhibitors also include artists from Korea and Iran.

We are happy to get some fresh air again. If it is already choking our breath, how can people live like this under the mountain for years?

We are drawn back into nature and we discover Lake Boračko on the map. Even now we are perfectly adapting the weather. Under one roof we enjoy trout, beer and staying dry, while after hours of sun a shower suddenly breaks from the sky.

We have to stay a little longer because a triathlon will close the streets for a while. But then the way is clear and we reach the capital of the country in the late afternoon.

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