The Bosniak soul

Hospitality of the Bosniaks (Bosnia & Herzegovina)




Dear Diary

Our next stop is Visoko. This city is known for being at the foot of a mountain that looks suspiciously like a pyramid when viewed from above.

Even if there is not the slightest hint of a cultural history of the mountain from an archaeological point of view, pseudoscientists outdo each other with adventurous theories about aliens or cultures before the Egyptians. These theories may be co-financed by the local tourism industry, because the number of restaurants with a “view of the pyramid” is noticeably high.



We shot ourselves another wonderful apartment online. It’s big, has several rooms, a terrace, and is affordable. In the end, it is the best thing about this place, because otherwise it has nothing to offer. We explore the city center in search of food, but for some inexplicable reason there are hardly any restaurants and the existing ones are closed in the evening. After we can’t stand it any longer, we have no choice but to avoid starvation in the neighboring fast food Cevapciciceria and wash down the meal with beer from the VIP bar (it’s called VIP, but it’s not a VIP). We compensate ourselves on the terrace of our apartment with local wine and the view of the approaching thunderstorm.

We forego a visit to the pyramid of the aliens and set off again the next day. We choose a small, inconspicuous road on the map to the north, in the hope of interesting encounters and beautiful scenery. Of course we will not be disappointed.

On the way we happened to stop by a monastery. Beer is just being delivered there; One would have to be a monk here. We also notice a carved wood figure of the last evening. According to the description, this was a gift to Pope Francis, who in turn donated it to this monastery.



It’s very green on our way. The road meanders through the mountains and we cross small towns. In one of these villages, Google sends us deep into the forest until a few people stop us. Our Bosnian has not improved in the last few days, but we understand that we seem to have little hope of being able to drive this road to the end with our car. For this, the men share their raki with us. We do not turn down the offer and turn around after the short cultural exchange. On the way we meet a mushroom picker who shows us his impressive findings.

We offer the man who introduces himself as Dragomir that we take him to the next village. He guides us to one of the first farms and introduces us to his family there before they scare them off to bring us food and drink. His daughter Rasim speaks English and can finally translate for us while she serves bread, cheese, cookies and coffee while her father gets the raki. At least we can return the favor with whiskey, although we have to be careful because Dragomir pours the venerable drop down a little too quickly in our eyes.



After a nice Bosnian lunch in the yard, we set off again. Our destination is the city of Travnik, where Chris suspects an impressive fortress.

However, it takes another two hours over a narrow gravel road until we get there and find that Chris had the right feel for fortresses.

We will spend the night one city further in Jajce.


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