There are very few traffic signs in Cuba. Place signs or directions are almost completely missing. El Pumpo constantly has to ask a farmer or passer-by for directions as soon as we come to a crossroads.

The maneuvers of the driver when he is feeling his way towards another moving car, motorcycle or bicycle and yelling through the open window are also interesting. Strangely enough, “thank you” doesn’t seem very common; maybe mutual help is so natural here that no politeness is needed.

On the way to Cienfuegos our good driver El Pumpo tells us that his children are very sick and in the hospital and that he has to go back. Our first driver Adalberto took care of himself this time and in Cienfuegos we get to know César, his charismatic friend Juanna Maria and his rickety Soviet box brand Lada, which is supposed to take us further through Cuba.

At least some windows work in the Lada, only one needs a piece of wood to hold it in place. Of course there are no belts either. The couple are in their fifties, they both exude a relaxed, happy approach to life and we like us straight away.

César even brings a six-pack of beer with him to get to know each other, which of course gives him a stone right away. Although Hans and Uwe don’t like the fact that they like to mix beer with tomato juice here.

The two have just come from Havana and Juana-Maria is visiting relatives.

We’ll explore the city together. Cienfuegos also has a grand old cityscape that it owes to the Spanish colonial rulers.