Diary Entry

I’m still on my personal Alpine expedition in autumn 2023. I’ve never been out in the Alps with my Triumph Tiger before and it was overdue. Even though it’s October and I’m between 1,000 and 2,500 meters above sea level, it’s a pleasant 25 degrees. The warmest autumn on record in Swiss weather.

After my stay in Flims was decorated with hot air balloons and I explored the Vorderrheintal and Valsertal, it’s time to slowly start the journey home. By chance I became aware of great pictures of the “Kunkelspass” and realized that it is not far from Flims. So I incorporate the pass into my route.

On the way to Flims I always pass Tamins. I didn’t expect that I would make a special trip to the small village because there is a beautiful route through the mountains from here.

I don’t see a single sign pointing to the route either. From here I can drive at a snail’s pace with the most beautiful views to the border with Liechtenstein.

Of course I have to stop every 5 meters and take a photo!

Following instructions from my navigation system, I wind my way through the narrow streets of Tamin, only to leave the town again at the end on a small street. There is still no sign anywhere that shows that this is not just the next cow pasture.

It’s still very early in the morning. Since I have a long day ahead of me and don’t know where I’m going to stay that night, I left early. The warm morning light rewards me for it.

Narrow, dangerous gravel stretch – I was looking for roads like these!

In the forest the road becomes even narrower and very steep. Luckily there is no oncoming traffic. There are also no real safety precautions between the road and a very steep drop. The view is extremely beautiful. I was looking for exactly these kinds of streets.

It is hardly surprising that the road then becomes a scree section. The narrow switchbacks wind steeply up the mountain. Then I stand in front of a cave that is supposed to be a tunnel. A hole in the wall where the street disappears.

This is not a tunnel. This is a hole in the rock face into which the road disappears.

This tunnel is really exciting. There is really no room for oncoming traffic here. Not even a big car can get through here alone.

After a few hundred meters I come out of the hole again. Are there more coming?

The pass is very remote, but there are a few holiday guests or day trippers at the hostel. I can imagine this place being part of a longer hike. Or people come by car from the other side as part of a day trip.

However, the road is not free! During my research I learned that a toll has to be paid here. There used to be a ticket booth here, but I don’t see any trace of it anymore. I had to register for my passage in the “easyPark” app. That costs me 10 CHF with the motorbike. Otherwise, you can get passage in the municipality of Tamins or from a holiday apartment host.

The Kunkelspass road is subject to a fee!

Source: Tamins.ch

On the other hand, things are going downhill again. But steadily. There are no serpentines or narrow tunnels to be found here. Instead, the idyllic valley of Vättis lies in the shade as the sun has not yet risen over the mountains.

The valley seems to be popular with campers. Twice I drive past places that are packed with motor homes and vans and whose residents are sitting in folding chairs in front of their vehicle with a steaming cup.

It’s a nice morning mood. The world is still sleepy. The valley is remote.

I’m slowly getting closer to civilization again. First at Tamina, then Pfäfers and at the latest at Bad Ragaz I’m back in traffic.

Where do the small side valleys lead?

Bad Ragaz is also a beautiful little town. Here I have arrived back in the Rhine Valley, but further north.

Liechtenstein is on the other side of the river. I don’t want to miss this.

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