On the way back to Faro we head back into the mountains. We land in a tiny village called Linhares and spend the night in one of the stone-stacked houses. This village is really unspoilt.

The bright sunshine the next morning promises another fantastic day. There are no tourists in this place. I find a small café right on the village square. There are only Portuguese people there who look at us a little surprised and pause in their discussions.

Of course there isn’t a map, but I can point to a few things we would like. There are also fresh cherries on the counter, which I order with some juice, a few waffles, coffee and water. This will cost us €6. In total. And only because we are tourists. The place has an impressively large fortress for its small size, which I quickly explore before we set off again.