Roads not covered in snow. We follow route 32 towards Pjorsardalsvegur and have Hjárparfoss to ourselves. Admittedly, it’s not very impressive either, having just seen the mighty Gullfoss.

At the junction with the F26 in the direction of Landmanalaugar we stop at a gas station and ask the landlord to be on the safe side whether we are getting there or whether the passes are still covered in snow. You can never be sure at home. He asks us which car we are driving. I point out the window at our dirty duster and the gas station attendant laughs. No, we can forget that.

So we turn around and drive straight to the waterfalls that we would otherwise have saved for later.

But first we have to cross a desert of ashes. The road leads straight to the horizon. Nobody drives this way, nobody comes towards here. There is hardly any vegetation. We feel like we are on a strange planet.