The trip through the picturesque Vorderrheintal was definitely worth it. Graubünden shows off its most beautiful side. From Disentis I head east again, but this time on the other side of the Rhine. Only small streets lead along here.

Behind Trun I drive up the mountain and follow the small road through Obersaxen and Mundaun. There are fewer bikers next to me. The air smells of the mountains, the herbs of the meadows in the sun and the autumn leaves.

The villages are all very beautiful. But let’s be honest: who lives here? Do people nearby work as farmers or what do they do? It is a mystery to me. Ilanz is not big and it is also a long way from Chur.

At Peiden the road surprisingly turns into a gravel stretch. It winds downhill in tight serpentines, so I still have a bit of a challenge.

When there is very little traffic, I drive along the valley. At times the valley even becomes a gorge and I drive some sections through open tunnels.

Then I finally reach Vals. As a child I once went to the thermal baths here. Everything used to look bigger. Was it always so small and narrow?

Was it always so small and narrow?

Things only get interesting behind the thermal baths, because that’s where the small old town is. The striking wooden bridge leads me over the river, the Valser Rhine. Then I stand in front of the church in the main square, with the beautiful wooden courtyards with the alpine shutters and geraniums.

I have no plan where I’m going. I actually wanted to see Vals again. But it is so incredibly beautiful and the road seems to go a little further. So I drive on and want to enjoy this ride in this beautiful place until I have to turn back.

So I drive further and further and the expected “continue forbidden” sign doesn’t appear. Instead, I leave the village and drive along a narrow, dilapidated track along a ravine. What else is coming here?

First comes a tunnel with a traffic light. Oh, what is that? The traffic light is red, but there is no one here except me. The traffic light turns green. So I accelerate and drive into the darkness.

The tunnel is very narrow and carved into the rock without being sealed again.

The lighting is dim, the route through this tube, in which I can hear the engine of my machine much louder thanks to the echo, is long and I am alone here. A little scary.

And then the light finally comes at the end of the tunnel. As soon as I’m outside I see what awaits me here: a huge dam! On the map I find out that it is the Zervreila dam.

So let’s go! Even if the wall looks close, it’s still a long way to get there because I can’t drive fast. The road is full of potholes.

The journey was worth it. The view of Zervreilasee is incredible. The water is turquoise and the autumn colors make the landscape shine. A painting by Bob Ross couldn’t look more beautiful. At the end I see the Zervreilahorn towering up like a dragon’s lair. I notice that everything here is named “Zervreila“.

It goes even further on the map, into the unknown. Nothing excites me more than exploring what lies at the foot of the Drachenberg. But I’m too late. It’s almost 6 p.m. and I want to get to my night’s quarters before complete darkness. Next time I’ll be here earlier. Tomorrow I’ll break camp and cross the Kunkelsspass to the north.