We are on the Panamericana and although the landscape is barren, there are always surprises. At lunchtime I look for a way to the beach so we can have a nice spot for lunch. Driving and exploring the area at the same time is always difficult.

At the beginning of a cultivated valley, which protrudes like a green spearhead from the beach deep into the country, I glimpse a road to the beach. There are small fishermen’s huts and we drive through a small labyrinth of paths and fences made of reed mats until we reach the pebble beach at the end.

Sara has started the cooker and the spaghetti is just about to reach operating temperature. With Leon in my arms, I stroll to the shore, where high waves crash against a wall of pebbles.

Vultures feast on a dead sea lion. Two small fishing boats are moored not far from the shore. But nobody but us is to be seen.

A surprising number of seagulls, storm seabirds and pelicans circle the boats and congregate on the water. Then I see a fountain rising out of the water next to it. And another one! whales!!! At least two.

Then you see her back. Then you see them waving their fins or their tail fins sticking out of the sea. I immediately call Sara so that she drops everything.

The whales stay there all afternoon and we don’t even notice how quickly time flies. Fishermen will come later. A man tells me that there are two mother animals with two calves. The whales come here regularly to feed their calves.

The romance of the Panamericana keeps us in suspense. Despite the highway, we are in the wilderness. The next event shows us again.