Argentina has a lot of potential and ideas for progress. At first glance, the country looks very modern. At second glance, you see how the new buildings are falling apart, or processes like online registration don’t work because the necessary infrastructure, like electricity or a smooth internet connection, is lacking. Argentina could be so beautiful if everything weren’t broken!

Shima took the bus to Foz de Iguaçu, and we’ll see her again in Asunción. While new elections were taking place in Germany, we left Posadas and headed west toward Corrientes, in the province of the same name. Along the way, we turned off and followed a 30-kilometer-long track into the countryside. We drove into Iberá National Park and went on our own safari.

From the car, we see caimans, herons, caracaras, capybaras, water buffalo, owls, and many water birds. We spot a caiman lurking in a pool. But the reptile isn’t the only one with teeth.

Using a small bait made of ham, we accidentally lure a large fish out of hiding, which ignores the motionless caiman and quickly grabs its prey with surprisingly sharp teeth.

On the way to the heart of Iberá, the animals of the wild and humans meet. Cattle and horses graze alongside water buffalo and capybaras, and cattle gates prevent the farm animals from crossing the main road.

I can’t imagine the caimans posing a threat to the cows, but there are supposedly snakes, and a farmer’s life is certainly anything but safe here. Water buffalo are also considered very aggressive.

At the end of the trail, a ranger’s hut awaits us. The gamekeeper isn’t there, and the only other sight we encounter in the small oasis is a grazing capybara. We set up camp and enjoy having this place to ourselves.

Numerous green parrots are buzzing and chattering in a tree, and two large caracaras are sitting in the meadow, constantly following our trail from a short distance and seeming to be watching Leon.

A short hiking trail leads us through the swampland. It’s very dry and hot. Strange, considering it’s been raining a lot the last few days.

On the other hand, it has only been raining since Shima joined us, and she traveled to Foz de Iguaçu with the rain.

It seems like it hasn’t rained here in a long time. We don’t see any animals along the way, but given the midday heat and the dry conditions, that’s no surprise.

But there are many small birds in the trees, singing in all colors. Signs warn of snakes and jaguars, but we don’t see any.

We return, unpack the camping chairs, and drink something cold from our fridge. Leon is in a good mood and wants to romp around. But I don’t trust the two caracaras that are constantly lurking near us.

Plus, there are warnings about big cats and snakes. So Leon stays on a short leash. Better safe than sorry.

It’s good that we keep Leon with us!

Finally, we’re no longer alone. The ranger shows up on his quad bike, and we register. More and more capybaras arrive, grazing or lying in the grass around us, deeply calm.

It’s relaxing…

Sara starts cooking and Leon plays soccer until we curb his activism with a round of UNO cards. I don’t want to leave him alone and I have a strange feeling. During the third round, I notice movement in the grass in front of us. It’s a snake, and not a small one!

A large snake is coming towards us quickly!

I point it out to Sara. The snake seems to be moving slowly in our direction. But then it picks up speed and comes really fast toward us. We jump out of our chairs. Barefoot as I am, I grab Leon from the other chair and hop through the grass, hoping that this is the only snake around us.

The ranger shows up with a few visitors who almost stepped on the snake if we hadn’t warned them. The reptile quickly reaches our camping chairs and inspects our belongings. It has a very beautiful pattern, you have to give it that.

Then the snake sneaks between the kitchen utensils under a kitchen cabinet and curls up there. It looks like it intends to stay longer.

We also took photos and videos, but we know we have to leave. The snake is nearby and could surprise us at any time. And who knows how many more might appear elsewhere.

The ranger tells me that the snake is a Yarará (“pit viper”), which has a highly dangerous venom and can bite, shooting from the ground like a lance, from a great distance.

We gather our things, say goodbye to the ranger and the beautiful place, and drive back down the track at the best time for a sun set safari. We are rewarded with great pictures of more animals. Caimans and owls, in particular, are perfect for viewing in the evening light.

Since we won’t reach the end of the trail until sunset, I decide to stop before the main road and set up camp. Finally, some wild camping! Sara is anything but thrilled, but there’s no other choice. There’s nothing else here.

Apart from the occasional farmer, no one will notice us on the side of the track, and the proximity of the farms and the road will hopefully mean there are fewer animals inclined to physical contact.

At night, a breathtaking starry sky reveals itself. The Milky Way looms overhead. No other light obscures the view of the stars.

The night is very beautiful, but we are creeped out by the footsteps of animals in the dark that are obviously neither horses nor cows, and we keep our toilet breaks to a minimum.

From our chosen sleeping spot in the wilderness, we drive along the long, straight road through the vast pampas towards Corrientes.