Uwe and I are travelling again. Once again we are flying to a place we have never been before. But this time it is harder than ever to say goodbye to Sara and Leon. The preparations for our trip are also more exhausting than ever. The African adventure begins before we even set foot on African soil. Of course we are travelling individually and are not letting a travel agency dictate how much fun we have. But it is difficult to get information, for example how to get from one place to another or how to find someone trustworthy to go on a safari with.

The visas for the countries were also a challenge. The formalities for EU citizens are actually easy and can be done online. But these online forms have their pitfalls and in the case of the East Africa visa, my processing number got lost, so I had to do some work to get my already approved visa.

Then, of course, there is a new epidemic. “Monkey pox“, or M-Pox, has broken out in the neighboring country of Congo, and cases have also occurred in Uganda, Rwanda and Tanzania. In addition, a few Germans in Rwanda have become infected with the dangerous Marburg virus.

All of our flights to and within Africa, apart from the return flight, have already been delayed, diverted or cancelled by the time we arrive at Frankfurt Airport. This can only end well.

At about the time we would have arrived in Entebbe, we only start from our stopover in Cairo.

Because of the huge delay, we miss our connecting flight to Entebbe and suddenly have to fly to Addis Ababa to catch a connection there. We arrive in Uganda seven hours late after a night-time odyssey through Africa.

I met Winnie through Couchsurfing, who lets Uwe and me stay in her and her brother’s apartment. She and her boyfriend pick us up from the airport. Before we drive to our new accommodation, we make a quick detour to the nearby “Coco” Beach.

Uganda’s international airport is not located directly in the capital Kampala, but in the nearby town of Entebbe on Lake Victoria. This Coco Beach is therefore located directly on this huge lake that looks like a sea.

Winnie’s accommodation is in the north of Kampala, so we have to cross all of Entebbe and Kampala and already get some impressions.

We have to go to the Kira district. On the way we see many United Nations vehicles driving in front of or next to us. Many of the large roads are not paved.

Winnie lives in a walled complex where a security guard opens the gate. The complex looks very modern and the apartment is very clean. It is like an island of modernity, but when you leave it you step back onto a muddy track of red sand.

The people in Uganda seem very relaxed to me. There is no pushing or honking in traffic. The people are very friendly towards us. I also learn the word “muzungu“. This stands for a white man or woman and is actually a compliment.

We live in the Kira area, just outside the city. Winnie’s apartment is exceptionally clean, while there is no paved road around it. We go to a bar nearby for lunch and again in the evening. Even though it is close, we take the car.

Afro-pop is playing in the bar and shisha is popular. The music is loud, but there is hardly any light. We are outside and you have to be careful not to trip on the uneven ground. The city is really dark at night. I have only experienced a big city in the dark before in Havana.

There is no street lighting. The little light that exists comes only from the windows of houses and the headlights of cars.

Winnie assures us that Kampala is safe for us Muzungus during the day. She just wouldn’t leave us alone at night. But she would be enough as a companion.

People in Uganda are crazy about the Premier League. Almost every house with electricity has a television showing a live broadcast or replay of a match from the English football league. Winnie is an avid Manchester United supporter. She is delighted when we bring her a quiz book with 600 questions about the club and proudly shows her gift to her friends.

I learn a lot about Uganda from Winnie and her friends. Although all the young people live in the big city of Kampala, it plays a big role which tribe you come from. There are 56 tribes in the country, each with their own language. Some are considered generous, others are the king’s tribe, others the president’s. To marry a woman from one tribe, you have to give each brother a cow. For another woman, a chicken is enough. The woman’s education is very important and drives up the price in animals.

The food is not bad. There is basically beef or chicken with rice or French fries or cassava. But it is always served in a delicious sauce with peppers and onions. There is also chapati, which are pancakes made from corn. And a well-known dish is called “Rolex” and is simply a rolled omelette with filling. Three types of beer are also offered. The local brands “Nile” and “Club”. There is also “Tusker” from Kenya.

The people in Uganda are very nocturnal. We leave Winnie in the shisha bar to go to sleep and explore Kampala with her the next day. However, it takes until three in the afternoon until our host is fit and we can leave. At least we have our UNO with us. We often use the card game to pass the time in Africa.

There isn’t much time left. Even though it’s Sunday, the streets are packed. We get a SIM card and fresh local coffee. Full of anticipation, I brought an espresso maker with me to the country.

Finally, we visit the Royal Palace. Only three kings ruled in this small replica of Buckingham Palace until the dictator Idi Amin took over and turned the beautiful building into a slaughterhouse.

Today, the king rarely uses the palace and then only as an office. People’s blood still soaks the ground.

We haven’t eaten anything all day. Winnie takes us through the heavy traffic of the dark city to a club where we can eat. Later, her friends play Afro-pop music in a band. It’s very nice, authentic and people dance to the relaxed songs.

It is late again when we arrive home. We pack our things and say goodbye to Winnie. We will be picked up early tomorrow morning to start our safari in the east of the country.