My Travel Diaries from
Azerbaijan
Summary
Currency: Manat
Capital: Baku
Drink like a local: Tea, wine, “whisky” (it’s actually Cognac)
Special facts:
- Fire has a special symbolic meaning in Azerbaijani culture. Azerbaijan is often referred to as the “Land of Fire” because natural gas springs have been burning here for thousands of years – a phenomenon that inspired reverence in ancient times. Fire represents purity, life and protection and played a central role in the rituals of the Zoroastrian religion, which has its roots in the region. Even Hindus have been making pilgrimages from India to Azerbaijan for centuries.
- Azerbaijanis and Turks have a special relationship with each other and both consider themselves “brothers and sisters”.
- In Baku you can see ladies in burkas and hot pants strolling through the streets right next to each other.
- Alcohol is freely available in most bars and supermarkets.
- Although the country is officially Muslim, only a few mosques dot the landscape.
- Even if several people are sitting at the table in a restaurant, surprisingly often there is only one card!
- When you go to a restaurant it often happens that you get your own room. Sometimes you are provided with an electronic button that you can use to call someone if you want to order something.
- You shouldn’t expect to get coffee in the country. Not even Turkish coffee is common. If you ask for coffee you will get soluble coffee, if at all.
- The different spellings for the places can be a challenge. The place names appear here and there in Azerbaijani, then in English or Turkish, and on my maps in German. Am I looking for Gach or Qakh or Qax? Am I looking for Schamachi, Shamakhi, or Şamaxı? Qobustan or Gobustan? Qəbələ, Qabala, or Gabala? I found the most variations under Altıağac, or Altiagach, Altyagach, Alty-Agatsch, Altiaghakh, or Alyagach!
Language
When I listen to Azerbaijanis speaking, I get the impression that they are conversing simultaneously in Turkish, Russian, Arabic, and Farsi. This is indeed the case. The proximity and, in some cases, long periods of occupation by one of these powers left many words from these languages in the vocabulary of “Azeri“.
- Hello – Salam
- How are you? – Necəsən?
- Thank you, I’m fine, how are you?? – Təşəkkür edirəm, yaxşıyam, sən necəsən?
- Bye bye – Sağ ol
- “To honour” (cheers) – şərəfə
- Flirting – gərəşmək
Currency
Der aserbaidschanische Manat (AZN) ist genau halb so viel wert wie ein Euro.
Food
Azerbaijani cuisine is rich in flavors and traditions, characterized by fresh herbs, meat, and pasta. lavash, a thin flatbread, accompanies almost every meal. Also popular are qutab, paper-thin pastries filled with herbs, meat, or pumpkin, similar to savory crepes. For refreshment, there’s akroşka, a cool drink based on ayran, which is especially appreciated in summer.
A unique dish is the sadj, a cast-iron pan in which vegetables and meat are cooked right at the table – a truly convivial experience. And of course, no meal would be complete without plov, the aromatic rice dish with saffron and meat, considered the queen of Azerbaijani cuisine. Cherry salad is often served as a fruity accompaniment – a sweet and sour specialty that provides a refreshing contrast with fresh cherries and herbs.
My lesson:
The people in the “Land of Fire” are just as nice as they are disorganized.
Travel Diaries
Azerbaijan – this is the little-known end of Europe, where geological and cultural features seamlessly merge into Asia and the Orient. It has always been my dream to explore these remote countries on my own.
The people are very hospitable (although often quite chaotic) and the country is safe.
The youth are making their presence felt in the capital, the country is regaining self-confidence, but it regularly suffers from the conflict with Armenia. And I already wrote this very text for Armenia in 2017.
Although many wars over territory, especially over Nagorno-Karabakh, as well as religious differences, strongly divide the countries, they have an extremely large number of similarities.
Apart from expatriates in Baku and tourists as part of tour groups in and around Baku and Sheki, there are hardly any travelers in the country.
