My exploration of Azerbaijan begins with stress: a delayed connecting flight and the anxious question of whether I’ll make my connection to Baku. But unexpectedly, I’m picked up directly from the tarmac and make it on time. In Baku, I immerse myself in a city that oscillates between a historic old town, cutting-edge architecture, and visible traces of its oil wealth. Again and again, I encounter incredibly friendly, yet often chaotic, people who open doors for me, show me the way, or even spontaneously invite me to their birthday parties.

I explore palaces, mosques, the Caspian Sea promenade, and meet new friends through Couchsurfing who show me the city at night. Later, with my friends who have traveled from afar, I embark on a road trip across the Absheron Peninsula and on to Gobustan, to mud volcanoes, petroglyphs, and finally deep into the Caucasian mountains. There, we experience deserted landscapes, secluded villages, warm encounters, wild roads, and breathtaking nature.

The journey is chaotic, intense and full of surprising moments – and shows me a fascinating, contradictory country in the heart of the Caucasus.