I have been in Tanzania for a few days now and I already feel at home. I am on a trip through East Africa with my friend Uwe and after Uganda and Rwanda we have now traveled to the land of Kilimanjaro and Serengeti. Arusha is the gateway to this world of clichéd Africa that all visitors aspire to. But what does the world look like away from the presentable national parks and how do people live here?

I’m trying to find out by spending a couchsurfing stay with the Maasai Shangwe. Our hostess gave us a nice insight into her life in and around the small town of Tengeru, outside the big city of Arusha.

We also want to see the city of Arusha and with Shangwe’s help we take one of the small buses that regularly go into the city. These vans run irregularly, but so frequently that you never have to wait long until one comes along.

We arrive at a square that seems to be part bus station, part market and part truck transfer point. I quickly get a SIM card and am impressed by the people around me.

The Maasai are present everywhere here. The city’s influence has not stopped at the Maasai tribes of the Serengeti and the Maasai Mara. Many members of the tribes are here to trade.

Be it at the market or just somewhere on the street, the Maasai are easy to recognize thanks to their colorful cloths and sticks.

Arusha is a very busy city. Even though it has grown through tourism, it does not seem to be an international city. Of course, we constantly see the large Landcruiser vehicles converted for safaris weaving through the traffic, returning from an expedition or just setting off for one. Interestingly, they all look the same. Even the color is identical.

The actual cityscape, however, consists of the normal hustle and bustle of scooter riders, small market stalls and people who have to go to the bank. Arusha seems like a big workplace where people prepare to work with tourists, who themselves live in expensive hotels and lodges. Tourists in the city itself are something unusual.

Shangwe leads us to a large market. Just like in Kigali, it is very neat and tidy here. A man who is something like a manager of the stalls sees it as his responsibility to lead us through “his” market.

He knows the sellers and the goods and gives us a nice insight into this trading place. We can try out some things that are unknown to us, be it fruits or nuts.

The fruit and vegetables all look delicious. I wonder where all these delicious fruits are grown when the country has recently been in a dry season and the rain is only just beginning to arrive.

There are even large fish on offer. These come directly from Lake Victoria and were caught there just this morning. So I am assured.

In the city we explore a few more markets, drink coffee and buy souvenirs. There aren’t many sights to see, but it’s still exciting.

We see the Maasai market, a bell tower, an art gallery and the torch that symbolizes independence.

As we walk through the city center, we pass a few sights. The Uhuru Monument commemorates Tanzania’s independence from British colonial rule. At its top is a flame, which is the symbol of the fight for independence.

The clock tower indicates that Arusha is halfway between Cairo and Cape Town. Visitors can also climb the tower, but we won’t bother. The building is practically on a traffic island.

We also visit the African Art Gallery. This impressive building exhibits traditional and modern art. Be it old tribal masks, totem poles or abstract sculptures – everything is there and everything has a price tag. The prices are at least fair to nouveau riche big game hunters and Hollywood actors.

The prices are high, but we are assured that the exhibited pieces, some of which are extremely large, can be shipped all over the world without any problem. Just as we are about to decide on a four-meter-high carved tree trunk for 12,000 USD, the gallery is unfortunately closing.

We pack our last things and say goodbye to civilization. The next week will be exciting because every day we face a new adventure. We visit Tarangire National Park, see the world of the Maasai and look out over Lake Natron.

We’re going on a safari through the legendary Serengeti and ending in the animal paradise, the Ngorongoro Crater. I’m really looking forward to it!